The best way to Prepare and Insulate Your Own Attic. How you can air seal and insulate your atticso your home does not lose all the heat it requires to help keep you warm this winter. Getting your attic up-to-speed with insulation is among the most cost effect measures to assist your house become more energy efficient.

Going to the attic usually means among three things.

1. Your ten years old and playing hide-and-seek.

2. Your 32 yrs old and you have an additional valuable heirloom to hold away for ever.

3. Your 54 years of age and you’ve noticed a wet spot on the ceiling and you’re afraid the rooftop is leaking.

All these are excellent reasons to enter the attic, for the time being, let’s enter the attic to consider the insulation and determine if adding more insulation would be a good – house warming – lower the energy bill – move to make.

Building codes effecting insulation levels failed to really commence to take affect until the early 1980’s. If your home was built prior to 1984, you will find a very good chance that your particular attic has minimal attic insulation. Builders in the 1940’s failed to insulate much of anything, builders within the 1960’s filled the space between the roof rafters with about 4 inches of insulation. Builders inside the 1990’s installed 8 inches ( R-25 to R-30 ) of loose-fill Isoler Combles Perdus Soi Meme and through the season 2000, insulation levels had reached 12 inches ( R-38 ). Today, depending on the homes location, attics are insulated with 16 inches of blown-in fiberglass ( R-49 ), cellulose, or shredded blue jeans.

Yes, shredded blue jeans, I’m serious, the ripped up blue jeans were being installed in a wall as insulation. Attic insulation is power efficient should you live in a cold climate and you’re attempting to keep the warm in and also the cold out, or if you live in a warm climate and you’re trying to keep the cold in and also the warm out.

Dark colored, metal fiber appearing insulation is probably rock wool. A popular attic insulation inside the 50’s and 60’s. Fairly effective rather than any adverse health hazard. However, insulation granules which are roughly ¼ inch square that feel like Styrofoam and contrast from mirror shiny to dark in color might be vermiculite asbestos. This can be bad stuff as a result of asbestos content. My advise to attics with vermiculite is to get it professionally removed. Do not handle or disturb this insulation minus the direction of any professional contractor.

Tip – Don’t mess with knob and tube wiring and don’t handle vermiculite. Call a professional. If your home was built just before 1940, you need to be conscious of knob and tube wiring. This can be clothed bound wiring that is certainly attached to ceramic knobs since it runs over wood framing structures or runs through ceramic tubes if the wire runs through holes inside the framing or building material. This sort of wiring will have to be replaced by new electrical wiring by an electrical contractor before insulating. In the event you insulate directly over knob and tube wiring, the wire can warm up and create a fire danger.

Yet another thing, watch in which you step while in the attic, only step on the truss or rafter framing lumber. In the event you step between the framing members you will probably stick your leg through the ceiling and also have one ugly hole to patch and one heck of a mess to clean up before the little women gets home. Tip – to supply a place to place your feet while you work on sealing the attic floor, take some plywood to the attic that will reach over several rafters.

Tools and materials needed:

1. Basic face mask and light coveralls. Cloth or leather gloves and eye protection.

2. Drop light so you can see what you’re doing and where you’re going. Tip – miner style head lights work good here.

3. In case you have a flue or chimney running up through your attic, or recessed lights or ceiling fans, you will need a small roll of light weight metal flashing, 18 to 24 inches wide. One set of tin shears.

4. Can of insulating expanding spray foam.

5. Tube of inexpensive general purpose caulk and a caulk gun. If you have gas appliances, also pick up a tube of high temperature caulk.

6. Cardboard vent chutesfor placing between the roof trusses in the same location as each eve vent or bird block. Count how many you will want by counting the quantity of eve or soffit vents from the outside the house. The simplest tool to put in the chutes is with a squeeze or tacker stapler.

7. Extra cardboard for barriers to separate areas where you do not want insulation.

8. 1/4 inch, #6 sheetmetal screws and a cordless drill. Tip – get self starting and threading screws.

How to prepare the attic before installing insulation:

1. Remove the items you have kept in the attic that have been placed over the heated area of your house where you are likely to insulate. Items stored over the garage can stay. Boards that were positioned in the attic to hold items on also need to be removed. Tip – Have a garage sale.

2. Consider the vent chutes and the tacker stapler and put in a chute each and every location where it comes with an eve vent. Fit the chute so insulation can not block the vent along with a flow of air can move externally, from the eve vent, up from the chute and out into the attic. Attic ventilation is essential for the fitness of your attic.

3. With pieces cut from the roll of metal flashing and the high temperature caulk, seal across the flue pipe in which the pipe comes with the ceiling. Cut one half circular pattern from your fringe of the metal and install around the pipe like a collar, screw in position making use of the sheet metal screws by screwing through tabs bent up on the sides in the metal and screwing in to the framing individuals the truss. Place half collar on a single side from the pipe along with a half collar on the other. Caulk the space involving the flashing and the pipe with all the high temperature caulk. Tip – when working with the thin metal, wear gloves to prevent getting cut from the metal.

4. Now consider the metal flashing and the tin shears and form a cylinder round the flue pipes and masonry chimneys and everything else that carries hot combustion gases. There should be a two inch air space in between the hot flue and the new sheet metal insulation barrier. Make use of the sheet metal screws to hold set up. These cylinders should look like extra tall turtle neck sweaters over a metal neck.

5. For those who have recessed lighting or canned lights ( same task), locate them within your attic. Older canned lights that you cannot cover with insulation will not be IC rated. IC stands for Insulated Ceiling. The IC rating needs to be clearly indicated on the label attached to the back from the light. Tend not to confuse a UL rating ( Underwriters Laboratory ) using the IC rating. They are certainly not exactly the same thing. A UL rating means the canned light has a cutoff switch installed which will turn the light off when it gets too hot. An IC rating means it is actually safe to pay for the canned light with insulation. Air space between the IC rated light and insulation will not be needed. Tip – Now would be a good time for you to upgrade the recessed lights to sealed cans and IC rated.

In the event the canned light is IC rated, seal the light where it will come from the ceiling with general purpose caulk – your able to install insulation over the light.

If the canned light will not be IC rated, seal the light where it comes from the ceiling and then any holes in the light body with higher temperature caulk. Form a cylinder with the metal flashing and put it round the light body like you would a flue pipe leaving a two inch air space. Hold it in position with all the sheet metal screws. This will look like a gardener that puts an open end bucket over his young tomato plants therefore they are protected against the cold. The plant is the can light as well as the bucket is the sheet metal.

6. Locate any exhaust fans, there could be none, several. The fans should have a ridged or flexable round duct running through the fan to an exhaust point that puts the exhausted air outside rather than within the attic. Utilize the all purpose caulk or even the foam spray to seal the fan body in the ceiling. Utilize the caulk to seal the holes within the fan body. Be sure the duct is exhausting to an eve vent or perhaps a roof peak vent. Utilize the metal flashing and the foam spray to seal the exhaust duct for the eve or roof vent. Support the duct with wire or plastic ties to make certain that the duct does not fall down over time. An exhaust fan includes a one way flapper valve inside the exhaust fan body just before it attaches to the duct. Due to the chance, inspect the flapper valve and ensure lint, dust, hair, moisture and gunk has not left the valve stuck open or glued shut. The flapper valve is a back flow restrictor, keeping cold or warm air from coming back down the duct in your house. Tip- Now will be a good time to replaced older noisy exhaust fans. I would recommend an exhaust fan rated at 100 cfm (cubic feet per minute ) or even more and on the quiet side.

7. Now consider the can of spray foam and apply foam to each hole where an electric wire, T.V. wire, or telephone wire enters or leaves the attic. Carry out the same for the plumbing pipes. There should be vent pipes running up from the attic floor and out the roof. Foam where the pipe comes with the attic floor. Do not foam in which the pipe goes through the roof.

8. Some homes, both older homes and newer, may have open framing spaces that run through the attic floor down towards the floor below. These are spaces that be a consequence of unneeded space at the conclusion of bathtubs or closets. They maybe the result of irregular framing for instance a triangle formed where a closet meets a hallway that fits a bedroom door. These open chases kkwzjo to be sealed with over just insulation. Take a piece of cardboard, work to match within the opening, lay a bead of purpose caulk around the lip of the opening, lay the cardboard on top the the caulk and screw down using the sheet metal screws. You now simply insulate within the cardboard.


We are using cookies on our website

Please confirm, if you accept our tracking cookies. You can also decline the tracking, so you can continue to visit our website without any data sent to third party services.